Gourmeffe

@gourmeffe

Food, restaurants and wines.
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In a small village of 200 inhabitants in Tuscany, what is defined by many as the finest lard on earth is produced. Colonnata lard is produced by only 12 lard makers. Among them is a producer who has transformed pig fat into a work of art (almost literally). Not surprisingly, 3-star Michelin restaurants are the first to want it. For Fausto Guadagni (@larderiafaustoguadagni ), lard is a blank canvas ready to absorb all the aromas. The history of Colonnata lard goes hand in hand with that of Carrara marble, being two cities that are only a few kilometers apart. The lard is aged in this precious ancient marble, the same material used by Michelangelo for his sculptures. Until the 90s, lard was little known. It was a poor food for miners. Fausto and his family made it only for their family and trattoria. Then Carrara became known, tourists went there for the marble and always stopped to eat some bread with lard from Fausto. He uses specific breeds of pig because he seeks a neutrality of flavor; a too flavorful pig would diminish the great work of spicing by the lard maker. Indeed, the trick is in the spices. Not all the spices can be disclosed. Among them are Sardinian salt, garlic (a special type, sweet, not intense), pepper, and wild rosemary. He doesn’t use any chemical preservatives and additives, his lard is 100% natural unlike most commercial lard. Fausto, in addition to producing the classic lard aged for 6 months, produces several types of lard. Among these, we can also find lard aged for more than 3 years with yuzu and Sichuan pepper. Or even rose petals, capers, sake, sun-dried tomatoes, cognac and beer can be some of the many ingredients that accompany the lard over the years. “The lard when it comes to me is something neutral, it’s as white as the painter’s canvas is white. It’s me varying the ingredients that are my colors, I create products that are different paintings each time”. And as Fausto says, to know if lard is good you have to eat it alone. If it’s good it melts immediately in your mouth. Because hot bread with lard was invented to disguise the flaws of not good lard. #Gourmeffe #ColonnataLard #FaustoGuadagni #LardoDiColonnata
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20 days ago
Among the streets of Florence boils a broth and a meat that is the city’s street food symbol. Besides being known for Renaissance art, Florence is the birthplace of lampredotto. A sandwich made with the innards of the cow—specifically, with the abomasum, one of the quarters of the stomach. The history of lampredotto is closely linked to that of the Florentine working classes. This dish dates back to the Renaissance, when Florence was one of the most important centers of European culture and economy. At that time, the less noble parts of slaughtered animals, such as the stomach, were often the only meats accessible to the less affluent classes. The traditional preparation of lampredotto involves slow cooking in an aromatic broth with vegetables (carrot, onion, celery, parsley, tomato) until tender. Once cooked, the meat is roughly chopped and served inside a bun soaked in its own cooking broth. The sandwich is seasoned with salt and pepper—the classic version—or with salsa verde (parsley, capers, garlic) and chilli oil, increasing the flavor and acidity. Tripperia Pollini (@tripperiapollini ), a kiosk opened in the 90s by Sergio Pollini and now carried on by his son Pierpaolo, is the go-to place to order an authentic lampredotto with a glass of red wine. #Gourmeffe #Lampredotto #TripperiaPollini #StreetFood #Florence
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24 days ago
In a city in Southern Italy, raw octopus— accompanied by a few drops of lemon and a cold beer— is a local meal, also known as the “breakfast” of the fishermen in the area. In Bari, Puglia, the octopus undergoes a two hour processing method— called “arricciatura” (curling)— in order to make it tender and crunchy, without the need for cooking. This treatment of the octopus allows for the appreciation of its intrinsic characteristics that would be lost through cooking. The process adopted by the fishermen is a primitive gesture passed down through the centuries and unique to this area. Preparing a “curled” octopus (‘polpo arricciato’) requires a long and patient preparation divided into different phases. The octopuses (once killed), after the standard cleaning, which involves simply turning the head's mantle inside out and removing the innards, are violently slammed against a hard surface, often the very rocks. This continues until the octopuses no longer tense up, becoming soft and significantly elongating. Then they are beaten with a wooden paddle, laid on a hard and smooth surface, they will relax even more and elongate further. Finally, they are shaken in seawater until they begin to show some curling of the tentacles where the reverse transformation begins. Now, you wouldn't believe it, but after all this mistreatment, to be forgiven, the fisherman places the octopuses in a basket, with a suitable edge, and gently rolls and cradles them. This operation will make them close up on themselves into a ball, curl the tentacles, and make them crispy and crunchy. A squeeze of lemon will be enough to make it excellent to eat; it can also be dressed with pepper and oil, never salt because all cephalopods contain a lot of water, which naturally is sea water and salty. Videos by Sophie Minchilli (@sminchilli ). #Gourmeffe #Italy #Puglia #Octopus #PolpoArricciato
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1 month ago
Barbacoa-making is a process that demands patience and cunning of all sorts. At El Pica (@elpica_1 ) it’s hard work, intense heat and requires a lot of strength. The ovens are heated for seven hours to ensure they reach the necessary temperatures for cooking four or five lambs (muttons) at a time. Once the temperature is just right, pencas— the previously cleaned maguey leaves— are heated to make them more malleable. The wood is then removed from the oven.   Pencas are meticulously arranged one after the other in what they call the “La Flor arrangement.” The pot, that will collect all the meat juices for the broth, is introduced with epazote and chickpeas. Then the mutton is placed inside, only in whole pieces. The ovens, or rather the 14 ovens, are covered with clay and left that way until the next day, when a thousand families gather here every weekend to eat.   What makes this barbacoa even more special is its communal presentation. While you purchase the barbacoa from the Pica family, you acquire your tortillas from another family, as well as lemons, salsas, and other delights. This results in a delicious taco that represents a  beautiful expression of community. Words and videos by TAMOA (@tamoamx ), a social entrerprise that distributes native products from Mexico, such as maíz, frijol, and chile, to restaurants in Mexico, the United States, and Europe. Videos n. 2/10 were filmed by @larutadelagarnacha . #Gourmeffe #Barbacoa #MexicanFood #Mexico
4,296 29
1 month ago
The quintessence of French technique is embodied in the making of charcuterie. The word “charcuterie” is derived from the French term “chair cuit,” which means “cooked flesh.” Charcuterie is the result of humans’ need to preserve meat before the invention of refrigeration. It develops in different forms, from sausages and hams, to pâté and terrines. Pâté is the word used to describe hot and cold pies and various meat, fish or game mixtures, some of them enclosed in buttery pastry (pâté en croûte), and some not. When forcemeat mixtures are cooked in a pot they take the name of that pot—a terrine. It’s precisely the coarser cut that constitutes the main difference between terrine and pâté, in which the meats must be finely minced. The origins of pâté and terrines can be traced back to medieval Europe. They were known to the Romans, Greek and French. During this time, the thick pastry crust served as a container for preserving the meat and it wasn’t intended to be eaten. It was the French charcutiers who elevated these meat pies to the modern idea of pâté en croûte, improving the flavours and the pastry, making it a delicious part of the dish rather than just a container. Indeed, the 17th and 18th centuries marked the golden age of French charcuterie, with pâté en croûte becoming the protagonist of the aristocratic table. One of the most relevant figures in the charcuterie scene is George Jephson (@meatfishcheese ), a British charcutier. From an interview with @drakesdiary by @charlie_teasdale , George explained how his culinary journey took a significant turn during his time in Paris, where he was influenced by the classic French techniques learned from Gilles Verot, a charcuterie wizard. “I never want to be chef-y about it,” he confessed in the interview. “I like the idea of having something that’s not trying to reinvent anything. It’s all there, and about respect for the classic dishes.”  In addition to supplying London’s Michelin-starred restaurants, George is open to selling his ‘charcuterie board’ through his website. #Gourmeffe #Charcuterie #Pâté #Terrine #PateEnCroute
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1 month ago
Burgundy winemakers against the frost. In regions like Burgundy, spring frosts represent a serious danger. Temperatures below freezing can damage or destroy the newly formed buds, compromising the harvest of the year. To combat this risk, winemakers can use various methods. One of the traditional is the use of “bougies”, small candles placed among the vines to create a layer of warm air that protects the plants from frost. In some instances, helicopters are used to hover over the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards, pushing warmer air down to the vines. Oddly enough, also spraying water on the vines can protect them. The water freezes and forms a layer of ice around the buds. The process of freezing releases heat, which can keep the buds at just above 0°C, preventing more damaging temperatures. 📷 @veronique_drouhin @vincentdancer_chassagne @marthehenrymeursault @christian.moreau.35 #Gourmeffe #Burgundy #Bourgogne #Wine #BurgundyWines
44.9k 379
2 months ago
Sometimes it’s not just about the cooking method; rather, it’s the cutting one that makes the difference. A technique that imparts valuable lessons, particularly from Japanese cuisine, is that of scoring. Japanese sushi chefs know that, in certain cases, there’s no need to cook an ingredient to make it tender; a skilled use of a knife is sufficient to achieve the desired mouthfeel. This approach allows ingredients like squid, which typically need cooking for tenderness, to be addressed, providing a solution to the hardness and contraction imposed by the fish’s muscle fibers. This way, we can retain the tasty and unique characteristics of raw squid that would be lost through cooking. Moreover, the scoring technique facilitates the cooking (as well as marinating) of certain meats, fish, mushrooms, and vegetables. For example, at the Jatak (@jatakcph ) restaurant in Copenhagen, they serve eggplant and squid using this method. Here, the squid is scored and cooked for just a few seconds directly over the fire. Similarly, at Noma (@nomacph ), this technique is applied to various ingredients, ranging from vegetables and mushrooms to different types of cephalopods—such as octopus, cuttlefish and squid. It’s important to note that not every ingredient requires scoring. Duck, for example, is often scored due to its thick and fatty layer of skin. On the other hand, chicken, with its thin skin, doesn’t need this treatment. 📷 @jtam1342 at @jatakcph (1/3/5) @reneredzepinoma at @nomacph (2/7/8) @vildmaddk (4) @kenjilopezalt (6) @tokyomanhattan at @69leonardst (9) @hyota.omakase (10) #Gourmeffe #Scoring #KnifeSkills
7,773 14
2 months ago
Probably one of the most underrated things: Canned Foods. “Not all the canned foods are created equal”, and this statement couldn’t be truer when it comes to Los Peperetes (@conservaspeperetes ), a Galician company that has mastered the art of preserving seafood. In 1990, Jesus Lorenzo Crespo, the founder, began to make canned sardines and cockles in an artisanal way, sealing them with a manual sealer. Today, they work the same way. The company has 20 employees who use century-old canning equipment, and the labels are stuck on by hand. They offer a diverse range of conservas, from succulent sardinillas to delectable berberechos. The sauces they make come from recipes that have endured over time in their family. The process begins with a rigorous selection of raw materials, choosing only fresh products in their optimal consumption season, sourcing from the best Galician fish and seafood markets. Canned foods are often labeled as “processed foods” and there are still many myths about the quality of these foods. But why choose canned seafood over fresh? The answer lies in the ability to capture seafood at its peak, preserving its flavors and nutrients. The best conserva makers, like Los Peperetes, source fish caught just the day before canning, ensuring exceptional freshness. Canning becomes a way to create a time capsule of unparalleled flavor and nutrients. Furthermore, a very important topic arises: that of aged fish. The flavor of seafood can be even better when served this way—a can of seafood is different after four years of aging. The seafood combines with the olive oil and gains other flavors and textures and becomes a different product, like an old wine. 📷 @bushaustin (2/3/5/10) #gourmeffe #lospeperetes #spanishfood #cannedfood #seafood #agedfish #galicia
25.7k 144
2 months ago
It’s that time of the year: Panettone season! This is Roy’s (@thisisfromroy ) production of panettone, an Italian sweet bread traditionally enjoyed for Christmas. Artisanal panettone takes days to be made, the dough is built over time, left to ferment and rise as nature works her magic. The final secret of panettone is the cooling process—this rich loaf must hang upside down to prevent collapsing and to maximize the air pockets in the crumb. Roy has spent the better part of a decade obsessing and perfecting what he calls, “the Mt. Everest of the baking world”. What begins with simple mother yeast or “lievito madre” (flour, water and the yeast which is present in the air) is cared for and nurtured with the utmost precision and dedication and then, using the highest quality standards, is transformed into one of the most special products in all the pastry and baking worlds. #Gourmeffe #Panettone #ThisIsFromRoy #panettoneartigianale
1.0m 4,706
3 months ago
This olive oil is different from what you know! First of all, it’s ‘Olio Nuovo’. Extra virgin olive oils are filtered to remove the sediment that remains after the olives have been pressed, leaving a translucent oil to be bottled. However, Olio Nuovo is bottled unfiltered, with the olive sediment suspended in the oil, giving it its iconic cloudy green appearance. As filtering takes some time, this also means Olio Nuovo is the freshest oil you can get since it is bottled immediately after pressing. Secondly, this oil is produced using a Ligurian olive, the Taggiasca olive, considered the queen of cultivars. It hails from a mountainous territory in the Ligurian hinterland. It’s in this incredible place that ROI (@olioroi ), the king of Taggiasca olives, resides. Established in 1900 by the Boeri family, the company produces oils of various types but always using the same olive. In 2004, the company introduced ‘cru’—a revolution in the oily world. Just as a good wine is good and unique thanks to the soil in which it grows, the same rule applies to extra virgin olive oil. ‘Cru,’ like in wine, are specific areas where particular olive groves yield higher-quality oil. The company produces various ‘cru,’ each with different characteristics, even though the olive used is always the Taggiasca. “We wanted to showcase the difference between the oil obtained from the same variety of olives growing in the same valley but at different altitudes. This gave rise to the Cru Gaaci, at 600 meters above sea level, and the Riva Gianca, at 60 meters, near the sea. And then, all the others were born.” The ‘cru’ are produced in small quantities, about 1500 liters per year, with prices eight times higher than an extra virgin oil found in supermarkets. #Gourmeffe #OlioRoi #oliveoil #olio #olioextraverginedioliva #olionuovo #extravirginoliveoil
6,735 41
3 months ago
Making the dough for ‘pastel de Tentúgal’ requires water, flour and an entire room. A crispy log of pure sweetness filled with ‘doce de ovos’ (a mixture of egg yolks and sugar), originating from the city of Tentúgal (Portugal). To start, the finest flour-so fine it resembles talcum powder— and water are needed. The baker then performs a three-step stretching dance that generates a giant air bubble in the dough that wobbles and wobbles. It’s a dough dance influenced by humidity, temperature, and time of year. Impressively, this technique has remained unchanged for almost 500 years! Once the dough dries and becomes almost transparent, the bakers shred and layer thin sheets to waterproof the filling. They then spoon in the sweet eggy filling and deftly roll it into a parcel. Finally, they glaze it with melted butter using a feather. The entire process was filmed by Miguel Andrade (@miguelcrandrade ) at Pastelaria O Afonso in Tentúgal. #Gourmeffe #Portugal #PastelDeTentugal
113k 1,210
3 months ago
The Last Mermaids: the history of sea women. Jeju Island, located below South Korea, is home to the “Haenyeo” (sea women), who face extinction after a 1700 year old tradition. These strong women hold their breath for up to 3 minutes, diving to depths 50-60 meters wearing only a mask and a wetsuit. With only a small shucker attached to their wrists, they catch and collect sea urchin, octopus, abalone, clams, oysters, conch and seaweed. The majority of these sea women are over the age of 50, many in their 70’s and 80’s. Some of them can no longer walk without a cane or walker on land, but once they put on a wet suit and dive into the sea, they are magically rendered free and full of life. In 2018, photographer Peter Ash Lee (@peterashlee ) traveled to Jeju Island, where he had the privilege of photographing this extraordinary group of women. The results have now been put together in “The Last Mermaid”, his new photo book. For centuries, these remarkable individuals fearlessly dove into the sea, harvesting seafood to sustain their families and preserve the cultural heritage of Jeju Island. The intriguing connection between the Haenyeo and the semi-matriarchal family structure of Jeju Island is the central part of this story. Through generations, this island has been a stronghold of female strength and resilience, and the Haenyeo embody this powerful heritage. As primary breadwinners, they challenge traditional gender norms in a society where men historically held positions of power. However, many of these indomitable old women, face the reality of being the last of their kind. “I spoke at length with one particular Haenyeo, the youngest on the island, who referred to herself as ‘the last mermaid’—the demanding nature of their profession discourages new generations from embracing this ancient way of life.” “Their unique way of life, wisdom, and traditions should not fade into oblivion but serve as a guiding light for future generations,” writes the protographer. The book, printed in Korea, documenting the Haenyeo’s inspiring journey, is now available for pre-order at @peterashlee ’s link bio. #Gourmeffe #Haenyeo #SouthKorea #Jeju
5,198 23
4 months ago